We predominately use 18ct gold for our jewellery pieces. This alloy is best suited to goldsmithing and wire drawing as it has an excellent balance of flexibility and rigidity. Its superior durability makes this alloy the perfect choice for jewellery that is to be worn everyday.
Gold in its pure form is a noble metal, it displays a rich yellow colour. When pure gold is blended with other metals it is transformed into an alloy. Variations like 9ct, 14ct, 18ct and 22ct are all different gold alloys, each determined by the percentage of gold combined other metals. The unique combination of metals and pure gold content impact the workability, durability and overall colour of the gold alloy.
9ct gold, with 9 parts to 24 (considering 24ct as pure gold) consists of 37.5% of pure gold, with the remainder predominantly comprising of copper and silver. Meanwhile, 14ct gold contains 58.3% pure gold, but the higher content of copper in both 14ct and 9ct makes the alloy more brittle, rendering it less malleable than 18ct or 22ct. The higher content of silver and copper in 9ct and 14ct results in faster erosion making them less suitable for delicate jewellery worn regularly.
On the other hand, 22ct gold is an alloy that is 91.6% pure gold, is relatively soft, while 18ct strikes the perfect balance, with 75% gold and 25% other metals. As illustrated in the above image, 18ct alloys can display various colours depending on the other metals in the 25%. The only factor which defines the finesse of an alloy is its pure gold content, a which is indicated by its hallmark, something that is strictly and legally regulated within the UK. The specific additional metals used the make up the final alloy (of any gold alloy) can vary between jewellers and bullion dealers.
More on our 18ct gold alloys below;
Rose Gold
This is the most ‘reddish’ toned of all, it has the highest copper content amongst the alloys, making it the most resilient 18ct alloy, albeit potentially prone to faster wear.
Peach Gold
Exhibiting a more orangey/peach hue, this alloy has less copper than rose gold but more than yellow and honey gold. It has great durability and compliments all skin tones, especially fair skin.
Honey Gold
Resembling a rich yellow colour, similar to 22ct gold, it is occasionally referred to as ‘French yellow’ due to its use in Cartier pieces. This gives an antique feel and pairs beautifully with white to yellow gemstones.
Yellow Gold
The most widely use alloy, it achieves a superb balance of copper and silver in the 25% composition making is ideal for goldsmithing. It compliments gemstones of all colours.
Lemon Gold
Featuring a light lemon hue, this alloy blends 75% pure gold with 25% silver, often dubbed ‘green gold’ due to its absence of copper. The absence of copper in the alloym makes it the softest of all the 18ct golds. It is best suited for weightier wedding bands and earrings.
White Gold
This natural 18ct white gold alloy combines 75% of pure yellow gold with silver and palladium, resulting in a warm grey hue. It is highly durable and perfect for wedding bands and other jewellery styles.
White Gold plated
Here, the 18ct white gold alloy undergoes rhodium plating, lending a cooler grey tint. The plating does wear over-time and will need to reapplied, every 1-2 years on rings and 4-5 on earrings and necklaces.
