We predominately use 18ct gold for our jewellery pieces.
This alloy is best suited to goldsmithing and wire drawing as it has an excellent
balance of flexibility and rigidity. Its superior durability makes this alloy
the perfect choice for jewellery that is to be worn everyday.
Gold in its pure form is a noble metal, it displays a rich
yellow colour. When pure gold is blended with other metals it is transformed
into an alloy. Variations like 9ct, 14ct, 18ct and 22ct are all different gold
alloys, each determined by the percentage of gold combined other metals. The unique
combination of metals and pure gold content impact the workability, durability and
overall colour of the gold alloy.
9ct gold, with 9 parts to 24 (considering 24ct as pure gold)
consists of 37.5% of pure gold, with the
remainder predominantly comprising of copper and silver. Meanwhile, 14ct gold contains
58.3% pure gold, but the higher content of copper in both 14ct and 9ct makes the
alloy more brittle, rendering it less malleable than 18ct or 22ct. The higher
content of silver and copper in 9ct and 14ct results in faster erosion making
them less suitable for delicate jewellery worn regularly.
On the other hand, 22ct gold is an alloy that is 91.6% pure
gold, is relatively soft, while 18ct strikes
the perfect balance, with 75% gold and 25% other metals. As illustrated in the
above image, 18ct alloys can display various colours depending on the other
metals in the 25%. The only factor which defines the finesse of an alloy is its
pure gold content, a which is indicated by its hallmark, something that is
strictly and legally regulated within the UK.
The specific additional metals used the make up the final alloy (of any gold
alloy) can vary between jewellers and bullion dealers.
More on our 18ct gold alloys
This is the most ‘reddish’ toned of all, it has the highest copper
content amongst the alloys, making it the most resilient 18ct alloy, albeit potentially
prone to faster wear.
Exhibiting a more orangey/peach hue, this alloy has less
copper than rose gold but more than yellow and honey gold. It has great durability and compliments all
skin tones, especially fair skin.
Resembling a rich yellow colour, similar to 22ct gold, it is
occasionally referred to as ‘French yellow’ due to its use in Cartier
pieces. This gives an antique feel and
pairs beautifully with white to yellow gemstones.
The most widely use alloy, it achieves a superb balance of
copper and silver in the 25% composition making is ideal for goldsmithing. It compliments
gemstones of all colours.
Featuring a light lemon hue, this alloy blends 75% pure gold
with 25% silver, often dubbed ‘green gold’ due to its absence of copper. The
absence of copper in the alloy makes it the softest of all the 18ct golds. It is best suited for weightier wedding bands
This natural 18ct white gold alloy combines 75% of pure
yellow gold with silver and palladium, resulting in a warm grey hue. It is highly
durable and perfect for wedding bands and other jewellery styles.
White Gold plated
Here, the 18ct white gold alloy undergoes rhodium plating,
lending a cooler grey tint. The plating does wear over-time and will need to
reapplied, every 1-2 years on rings and 4-5 on earrings and necklaces.
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